Ancient Murkhanat Temple: A Gateway to the Underworld City

Murkhanat Temple stands along Highway 212 between Nakhon Phanom and That Phanom in Don Nang Hong subdistrict, That Phanom district, Nakhon Phanom province. This 300-year-old temple was once prosperous and is one of eight satellite temples of That Phanom Stupa, serving as the birthday stupa for those born on Wednesday nights, and functions as the first meditation practice temple of Nakhon Phanom province. Currently, Phra Kru Sopon Bhavananusit serves as abbot. The temple houses the Murkhanat Stupa, a square brick structure standing 50.9 meters high with a 20-meter base on each side, resembling That Phanom Stupa. According to historical records from 1767, Murkhanat was a major city on the Mekong riverbank before erosion and severe epidemics prompted residents to relocate and establish a new settlement at Ban Nong Chan in Mueang district. Ruins of both the temple and the old city remain visible near Don Nang Hong Sangkhram School, adjacent to Murkhanat Temple.

Later, under the guidance of Phra Pariyatti Theerakhun (Samli Pannyavaro) during his tenure as abbot from 1900 to 1905, and with support from many devotees, the temple was progressively restored and rebuilt to its former glory. During the auspicious occasion of King Bhumibol Adulyadej's 50th anniversary of his reign in 1995-1996, ML Wichaisoп Laddawan served as patronage chairman, with Khun Boon Sree Sondhayangkul as vice-chairman. Working with Buddhist devotees from Nakhon Phanom, they undertook restoration as an offering of respect and homage, funding the construction of the ordination hall, temple buildings, and the reconstruction of Murkhanat Stupa.

In 1997, Phra Tham Pariyatti Sopon, then abbot and provincial Buddhist committee chairman, oversaw comprehensive restoration of the deteriorating stupa, applying new gold leaf, fresh paint, and marble tiles. He also commissioned the construction of three entrance archways and five-headed nagas at each corner, as seen today. The stupa interior houses reliquaries discovered from archaeological excavations, along with precious gems, silver, and gold. A hidden staircase leads inside, though the entrance remains sealed. Beneath the stupa is a golden-hued prayer hall enshrining Buddha images in all four directions, suitable for meditation. The outer hall displays numerous Buddha images and sculptural reliefs of the Buddha in various postures adorning the walls in brilliant gold.

Before the ordination hall stand three nagas protecting Murkhanat Temple: Suvaratsinghanaga, Chullasinghanaga, and Naktisinghanaga. The renowned forest monk Luang Pu Kam Phan of Tham Maha Chai Temple in Pla Pak district prophesied that this location would become spiritually significant, with the three nagas serving as guardians and benefactors of the temple. He also revealed that beneath a banyan tree north of the temple, at a creek called Bang Hok, lies a gateway to the underground city.